Coffee from Madagascar

Madagascar is an island country in the Indian Ocean that is also the world's fourth-largest island country. Plants and animals there have been permitted to evolve in relative isolation since breaking away from the Indian Subcontinent over 88 million years ago: over 90% of their wildlife can't be found anyplace else on the planet.

One of the other things you can count on finding there (you see where we're headed with this...) is coffee. Coffee is a way of life for the people of Madagascar, a true national obsession. The Malagasy are passionate about making and drinking the world's favorite caffeinated beverage.

What route did coffee take to reach Madagascar? Does it have a significant impact on society? What distinguishes their coffee culture from others?

A SUMMARY OF MADAGASCAR COFFEE'S HISTORY

The neighboring island of Réunion, formerly known as Bourbon Island, was the first to introduce coffee to Madagascar. This Ethiopian coffee experienced a brief period of prosperity before plummeting. These Réunion Creoles, like any hardworking farmer, transported the plants to Madagascar and started coffee production there.

In 1895, however, French colonists arrived in Madagascar and swiftly took control of the coffee production. In the 1930s, colonial policy made coffee the island's main export. One advantage was that they unwittingly supported indigenous Malagasy smallholder production.

However, a conflict over resources in 1947 between the French, Réunion Creoles, and native Malagasy nationalists resulted in one of the bloodiest crises in French colonial history. In Malagasy society, the fight between these two opposed forces has left lasting scars.

Madagascar gained independence in 1960 and was one of the island's largest coffee exporters until the 1980s. Madagascar was the world's eighth-largest coffee producer by volume during this time.

Cloves, vanilla, and rice are also exported, however most of the agricultural is for subsistence. Farmers grow as much as they can to feed their family and sell the extra at local markets.

THE COFFEE IN AND OF ITSELF

Madagascar's coffee production has evolved over time. Previously, the country's agriculture consisted mostly of low-grade robusta beans; however, the number of higher-grade arabica beans has increased. Around 90% of the coffee grown in Madagascar is still robusta, with arabica accounting for the remaining 10%.

Madagascar's robusta coffee beans are currently considered to be of excellent grade. The robusta is primarily exported to France.

The robusta is planted at heights of 100-300 meters along the country's east coast in the Vatovavy-Fitovivany region, Antalaha, Tamatave, and on Nosy Be in the northwest near Ambanja and along the Sambirano River.

Arabica is grown in the central highlands, Antananarivo province, and near Lake Alaotra at higher altitudes.

THE COFFEE-MAKING PROCESS

Madagascar is dominated by small, family-run farms. These farmers invest the time and effort required to produce a quality product. Before being washed and sun-dried, the coffee cherries are hand-picked.

The majority of crops, including coffee, are grown organically, as they have been for centuries, but without certification. These farmers ensure that the coffee is grown in the best possible way by combining crops and relying on natural, wild fertilizer. This promotes biodiversity and the continuous use of natural pest treatments to keep the environment as clean as possible.

Madagascar's success in exporting other high-quality commodities like vanilla has sparked hope that it's arabica beans will make an impact on the international speciality coffee market. In 2017, Madagascar exported 1,600 tons of processed vanilla worth over $680 million — let's hope coffee follows suit one day!

The United States Agency for International Development (USAID) has worked hard to assist and promote the success of Madagascar's robusta and arabica bean growers.

Innovative training and processing centers have been established to demonstrate new techniques focusing on coffee growing, bean roasting, and alternative and ecological farming practices.

A ONE-OF-A-KIND INDUSTRY (WITH CONDENSED MILK CANS?)

If you ever find yourself in the country, one thing is certain: you won't have to look hard to get some delicious green coffee beans. These are sold at marketplaces all around Madagascar, where they are customarily scooped out of large bags using 390g condensed milk cans.

Yes, we recognize that this may appear to be an odd approach to compute a coffee quantity, but bear with us. Condensed milk is quite popular in Madagascar, thus these dependable cans can be purchased almost anywhere. Scooping is the basis for the entire coffee-buying mechanism at these neighborhood markets.

Green coffee isn't the only type of coffee sold in these marketplaces; brewed coffee is ubiquitous and is a vital source of income for many people in Madagascar. This is especially true for women: outside of agriculture, 51 percent of all female employees in Sub-Saharan Africa work as vendors.

TAKING UP AN IMPORTANT POSITION

Because the people of Madagascar are such coffee connoisseurs, these vendors are vital, especially for those who cannot afford to drink at specialist cafés. These makeshift stalls can be found just about anywhere and are always ready to serve when it's time to re-energize.

However, these vendors offer more than just coffee. Many people in Madagascar rely on these vendors for food since they lack both food and fuel to cook with. For these people, the traditional rice cakes served alongside the coffee provide much-needed nourishment.

Working as a vendor is tough work with minimal pay; vendors rarely make enough money to offer a secure education for their children, or to afford decent housing or healthcare. Nonetheless, they are vital to Madagascar's indigenous communities, providing the all-important taste of a hot cup of coffee.

PASSIONATELY PROUD

Madagascar's farmers are adopting traditional ways to create excellent-tasting coffee that will be appreciated both on and off the island's coastlines.

Coffee isn't just a pick-me-up in this town; it's a way of life. People in Madagascar not only rely on it to start their days, but many of their lives depend on it as well. It's an important crop that's been a part of Madagascar's history and identity for a long time, and it's not going away anytime soon.